FAT splodges of rain heralding the arrival of Storm Darragh scattered across the windscreen as we left Chepstow towards Tredunnock. The wind buffeted trees and bushes along the way.
A storm was brewing.
Government warnings about Armageddon barked from our mobiles simultaneously as we fought our way out of the car in the worsening wind, through the heavy rain to the welcoming front door of the convivial country restaurant pub.
The Newbridge on Usk at Tredunnock in Monmouthshire Image: SubmittedAn office party was wrapping up as we entered, a round of malts on the bar awaiting them, alarmingly accompanied by ginger ale. Sacrilege!
We were whisked through to our table ready to experience the Newbridge on Usk tasting menu.
Passing on the G&T – there must be a selection of at least 20 individual gins to choose from – we plumped for the Chilean Lunaka Pinot Noir Reserva, which was one of the suggestions as a pairing on the tasting menu. Earthy, dusty and faintly dry to start it become fruitier as it breathed, a perfect choice.
Now there are some who maintain a position that ‘fine dining’ – small plates – simply leaves you unfulfilled, hungry, looking for a Five Guys.
Well, what we have here is more a case of re-fined dining.
Gareth Jenkins, of the Newbridge on UskThe expertise exhibited in the thought beforehand and the creation of each plate of food, the combinations of flavour, texture, colour and form, is quite superb. The ingredient pairings a revelation and tastes achieved are astonishing.
We started with Newbridge homemade sour dough bread and salted Welsh butter. The four rectangles nestled in a bespoke wooden case were deliciously oily with a faint edge of crispness.
The blackberry seeped melon balls, delightful baubles of juiciness, starter served with pumpkin seed brittle to give texture, were refreshing mini-explosions of taste.
Welsh Lamb RumpNext it was the turn of the Char Sui pork belly – an unctuous block of flavour filled meat falling apart at the suggestion of a knife served with a plump portion of fermented plum. It was mind blowingly good.
Lingering on the taste buds after the gorgeous crockery was removed and replaced by another art installation of a plate of food, the grilled plaice fillet accompanied by a medley of celeriac, apple, shallot and cashew brought memories of a British summer seaside to the table.
It’s a pure unadulterated taste of the ocean. Close your eyes and you’re in Solva, Tenby, St David’s. Flaky white leaves of flesh kept in place under a scorch grilled skin. This is a stand out dish.
Blackberry Steeped MelonWe already each had a set of six pairs of knives and forks on parade but now one set was removed to be replaced by a mini scimitar and fork for the Welsh lamb rump. An omen? Will it be tough? Not a bit of the it.
The perfectly pink flesh was as tender as can be and the taste – wow – straight off the Welsh hillside. I have seldom had such succulent and lambish lamb. It was exceptional. The smoked carrot, potato terrine and crunchy spinach were the perfect addition.
That was the last of the meat and declining an opportunity to take a breather, we were headlong into dessert, the excellent wine skipping along and keeping pace.
Char Sui Pork BellyWe could have had a different glass of a specially chosen wine to pair with each dish, but as we were driving – and the weather was getting wilder – this was by far the best option.
There are some dishes that look too good to eat. They are a work of art. The dark chocolate ganache with orange drizzle and cognac cream cigar is one such dish. The chocolate had a depth of flavour that seemed endless. It was a total delight.
But wait. There’s more. A black cherry mousse with malted milk parfait and coffee tulle came next and to be frank was a slight anticlimax after all of what had gone before. Very slight mind you. It was nice, it was firm and soft and subtle and creamy but not quite the bang you’d expect at the end of a tasting menu experience to linger long in one’s memory.
Grilled Plaice FilletWe ended with cups of Welsh tea which seemed appropriate on such a blustering Welsh evening. Grabbing our coats we ventured into the gathering tempest.
The drive home back along the B4235 was eventful. Dark, foggy, torrential in terms of wind and rain, flooded in parts and one tree fallen across the road. The real event hadn’t even arrived properly at that point.
Perhaps it was nature’s very own weather tasting menu paired with a full flight of possible dangers around every corner.
Yes, the tasting plates are relatively small but that misses the point. The punch packed by the taste in each is refined. They’re thoughtful, well-chosen and excellently executed by a chef, Gareth Jenkins, who is at the top of his game.
Black Cherry MousseI don’t recommend going out in a storm like Darragh but I do urge you to venture out to the Newbridge on Usk to experience intricate, refined dining.
The Newbridge-on-Usk tasting menu is £55 per head with a full flight of wines an additional £40. The menu is only available on Fridays and Saturdays until the end of December.