Stepping onto the woodland trail, you’ll first notice how the crisp air is laced with the earthy scent of damp pine and moss, a sensory reminder that this is nature at its most untamed.
Winter transforms this ethereal forest into a striking landscape — mist hangs between the trees, the forest floor glows green with moss, and frost clings to every branch, catching the light when the sun breaks through.
This is Hafren Forest in its quietest, most enchanting season, where crowds are fewer, and you might see the forest covered in snow.
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The trails here are well-marked and inviting, winding through groves of pines and firs. Their natural symmetry forms archways overhead, framing the path ahead. When sunlight breaks through the clouded sky, it pours in golden beams, illuminating icy leaves and bark.
The river takes centre stage here. The Afon Hafren, better known as the River Severn, begins its journey on the slopes of Pumlumon, with its hidden source waiting just beyond the forest.
At first, it’s no more than a gentle stream weaving its way through the trees with a calm determination. But it doesn’t stay quiet for long. It gathers strength as it tumbles over rocky ledges, transforming into roaring waterfalls that cut through the landscape with relentless energy.
Here’s why Hafren Forest deserves to be on your must-visit list in winter.
What is the Hafren Forest?
It’s a carefully managed woodland -Credit:Portia Jones
Hafren Forest, stretching across the Cambrian Mountains near Llanidloes, is a carefully managed woodland with a fascinating history. Originally planted in the 1930s by the Forestry Commission, it was designed for timber production, but today, it offers much more than rows of trees.
Managed by Natural Resources Wales, the forest balances commercial forestry with conservation and public enjoyment, making it a vital habitat for wildlife and a haven for outdoor enthusiasts.
The name Hafren comes from the Welsh word for the River Severn (Afon Hafren), which begins its epic journey to the sea right here.
Over the decades, Hafren Forest has evolved into a popular and accessible walking destination, with its mix of natural beauty, heritage features, and well-maintained trails attracting visitors year-round.
A river’s small beginnings
The source of the River Severn -Credit:Portia Jones
It’s remarkable to think that the mighty River Severn, which spans over 200 miles, begins its journey here in Hafren Forest. Its humble origins on the slopes of Pumlumon quickly gain momentum as the water carves its way through the forest, forming a series of lively cascades and waterfalls.
As you follow the trails, the sound of the river changes, growing stronger and more insistent. Each step brings you closer to the rhythm of the water, building like an overture before revealing its hidden source beyond the forest’s edge.
Reaching the source is no ordinary walk. A steep climb takes you onto the moorland, where a simple, carved wooden post marks the exact spot.
Standing there, surrounded by the windswept landscape, you realise just how far the Severn has to travel — and how extraordinary it is to witness its unassuming beginnings.
The forest trails
The forest trails are well marked -Credit:Portia Jones
Hafren Forest offers a network of well-marked trails designed to showcase its unique woodland and waterfall beauty.
Whether you want a short stroll or a more ambitious hike, there’s a trail for all hiking abilities. Starting at the Rhyd-y-benwch car park, the trails lead you through towering trees, past rushing waterfalls, and even to the hidden source of the River Severn.
Cascades Walk (0.9 km, 30 minutes, Accessible)
The Cascades Walk is perfect for a gentle outing and is designed to be accessible to all. It begins with a sloping path from the car park, leading to a picturesque boardwalk that hugs the riverbank. Along the way, cascading water tumbles over rocks, creating a soothing backdrop for walking.
At the end of the boardwalk, a raised viewing platform offers a wonderful vantage point to pause and take it all in before looping back along a wide, well-surfaced path through the forest. Even in winter, the icy river below and frost-dusted trees make this short trail a magical experience.
Severn-Break-its-Neck Trail (2.3 km, 1 hour, Moderate)
This trail is as dramatic as its name suggests. Beginning at the car park, you’ll follow a gently winding path along the river before it opens into a meadow, where a boardwalk takes you closer to the sound of rushing water. After a brief climb, the iconic Severn-Break-its-Neck waterfall comes into view.
Here, the River Severn thunders down a rocky gully, its raw energy palpable as you cross the footbridge above. The return leg follows a forest road, offering sweeping views through the trees and a chance to catch your breath after the steeper sections.
I love the forest trails -Credit:Portia Jones
Blaen Hafren Falls Trail (6 km, 1.5 hours, Moderate)
For a longer hike, the Blaen Hafren Falls Trail offers a longer, more immersive walk through the forest canopy. The route follows a well-surfaced gravel path alongside the River Severn, leading you through tranquil woodland. As the trail ascends, glimpses of the surrounding forest emerge before revealing the cascading Blaen Hafren Falls hidden among the trees.
Benches along the way provide spots to rest and take in the scenery. The trail loops back via a forest road, making it a rewarding option for walkers looking to stretch their legs.
Source of the Severn Trail (13 km, 5 hours, Strenuous)
If you’re up for a challenge, the Source of the Severn Trail is the ultimate adventure. This route takes you deep into the forest, past Blaen Hafren Falls and onto the open moorland of Pumlumon.
The climb to the source is steep and rugged, with stone slabs marking the way across boggy terrain. At the top, you’ll find the hidden source of the River Severn, marked by a simple carved wooden post—a quiet, windswept spot that feels worlds away from the dense forest below.
Along the way, the trail passes heritage sites, including the remains of a mine, a farmstead, and a standing stone. Keep an eye out for the map panels installed at key points, which help you gauge how far you’ve come and how much further you must go.
If you’re up for a challenge, the Source of the Severn Trail is the ultimate adventure -Credit:Portia Jones
Accessible walks
One of the things I love about Hafren Forest is its accessibility. The Cascades Walk is an all-ability trail with a well-maintained boardwalk and benches. It reminds me that nature is for everyone, regardless of experience or mobility.
The Rhyd-y-benwch car park is a hub for all the trails, with picnic areas and facilities to make your visit comfortable. Even in winter, it’s worth packing a thermos and sandwiches — the riverside views make every bite taste better.
Beyond Hafren: long-distance adventures
Hafren Forest is also the starting point for two epic long-distance walks. The Wye Valley Walk follows the River Wye for 136 miles, while the Severn Way traces the Severn’s journey to Bristol. For a shorter challenge, the Sarn Sabrina circular walk offers 25 miles of myths and landscapes named after a Celtic river goddess.
Cyclists can also explore the area via the Sustrans National Cycle Network, which winds through the forest and beyond. It’s a great way to experience the region’s beauty faster.
Head to Llanidloes
Llanidloes is a lovely market town -Credit:Portia Jones
Once you’ve explored the trails and soaked up the beauty of Hafren Forest, the nearby market town of Llanidloes is a natural next stop. This charming town – the first on the River Severn, offers a relaxed vibe perfect for an afternoon of exploring.
Known for its 17th-century timber-framed market hall and a few independent shops and cafes, Llanidloes has the perfect mix of history and small-town charm.
Afternoon tea at Cobblers Tea Room
If all that walking has left you hungry, Cobblers Tea Room on High Street is the place to swing by for coffee and cakes. Step inside, and you’re met with the comforting smell of freshly brewed coffee and baked goods still warm from the oven.
This cosy, traditional tea room has welcomed visitors since coming under new management in December 2018, becoming a local favourite. Their well-priced menu features homemade delights. Cakes are baked on-site, and seasonal offerings include mince pies in winter and gelato in summer.
Their Welsh rarebit stands out for something savoury and comforting — rich, cheesy, and served just as it should be. Sandwiches are made fresh to order, and the daily homemade soup is perfect for warming up after a brisk winter walk.
Cobblers Tea Room is worth visiting -Credit:Portia Jones
Stay at Hafren Forest Hideaway
If you plan to make a weekend of it, Hafren Forest Hideaway offers a peaceful base just a short drive from the forest trails. Located near Staylittle, this cosy retreat has room for up to 13 guests, making it ideal for families, friends, or even solo adventurers who fancy a bit of downtime surrounded by nature.
The accommodation is flexible, with options for self-catering or home-cooked meals prepared by the friendly hosts, Sarah and Darren.
After a day exploring the trails or visiting the source of the River Severn, you can relax in the spacious lounge, complete with a wood burner to warm you up on chilly evenings.
Outdoor enthusiasts will love the location, with nearby hiking, mountain biking, and fly-fishing opportunities.
Tips for Visiting
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Getting There: The easiest way to find Hafren Forest is by setting your satnav to SY18 6SY. Llanidloes is just a short drive away and offers shops and cafes to stock up before your adventure.
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Timing: Plan for at least a few hours, even if taking a short trail. The Source of the Severn Trail requires up to five hours, so start your walk early if you want to finish before dusk.
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What to Pack: In winter, warm layers and sturdy boots are essential. Don’t forget a camera — this is a place you’ll want to remember.