Many centuries ago, there once stood a royal house near the south-west coast of Anglesey. The House of Aberffraw, named after the village, was located within the borders of the old Kingdom of Gwynedd.
This dynasty was established in the 9th century by the King of Wales at the time, whose descendants then founded the Welsh royal houses. Here, near the mouth of the River Ffraw in which the village got its name, the early kings of Gwynedd founded their principal family seat at the royal court.
Once a prehistoric settlement, which was later occupied during the Roman period between c.0-400 AD, the town was a Welsh princely court and played an integral part in the Gwynedd dynasty. And it thrived for centuries thereafter until the 13th century, until the Kingdom of Gwynedd, and the royal house itself, was culminated in the conquest of Wales by Edward I and the death of the last prince, Dafydd III in 1283.
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Today, the village is far from its past as the chief seat of the princes of Gwynedd during the Middle Ages. According to the 2021 Census, it is home to around 597 residents. Although a peaceful and sleepy village, there is a sense of quiet beauty here, surrounded by astounding and breathtaking landscapes. Find out about the latest events in Wales by signing up to our What’s On newsletter here.
It comes as no surprise therefore that in 2023, Aberffraw was voted the best place to live on Ynys Mon in a poll conducted by North Wales Live. More over, the Telegraph also took a shine to the little village, writing: “Nowadays, the village is a huddle of pretty stone and pastel-painted cottages peeking above the tidal waters of the River Ffraw. With the first glimmer of sun, you’ll race with childlike joy over wind-whipped dunes to its gorgeous sweep of powdery sand, Traeth Mawr.”
Albeit small and rural, this village is brimming with community life. Here you’ll find Welsh whitewashed cottages, a pub, shops, a post-office, a cafe, a village hall and an art gallery located all along the River Ffraw estuary. If a pint is what you are looking for, then head over to The Crown (Y Goron), which is a traditional Anglesey pub which aims to offer great food, local ales and a friendly welcome to locals and visitors alike.
The single-span stone bridge over the Afon Ffraw at Aberffraw, Anglesey, was built in 1731 by Sir Arthur Owen -Credit:Phil Taylor
And if you are looking for a bite to eat, then head over Llys Llewelyn Cegin Bar on Chapel Street. This eatery is everything you need in a traditional cafe which serves sandwiches, toasties, paninis, homemade soup and cake. So far, this “little gem” of a cafe has received nearly 200 reviews online, with customers praising it for its “amazing breakfast”, “nothing short of magnificent” afternoon teas and “very welcoming” staff.
But if exploring is what you are looking for, then rest assured, as there is plenty of open spaces to do exactly that in Aberffraw. Around a 25-minute walk east from the village you can find the beautiful sand dunes and beach – Traeth Mawr. As mentioned on the Visit Anglesey website, the dunes have an open access on foot and there is a parking area on the western side, which can be found just as you turn off the A4080 main road or alternatively by typing ‘LL63 5LJ’ into your satnav or phone map.
After a short walk from the car park, over the bridge and through beautiful countryside, you’ll find Traeth Mawr, which is said to be Anglesey’s “best kept secret”. This long, sandy beach will rarely get busy in comparison to the neighbouring beaches of Traeth Rhosneigr or Traeth Llanddwyn. What makes Traeth Mawr is so unique is undoubtedly its sand dunes.
Traeth Mawr, a large but secluded sandy beach near the village of Aberffraw -Credit:Steve Williams
These grassy, sandy mounds attract an abundance of wildlife, including some rare plants such as shore dock and petalwort. Its fixed dune include various kind of plants such as red fescue, lady’s bedstraw, marram grass and early sand-grass. Rich in interesting plants and insects, this place as rightfully been designated as a Site of Special Scientific and a Special Area of Conservation.
This area also has a perfect example of mobile dunes, which means it has great rolling ridges of mobile sand. In other words, the sand shifts almost daily with changes in wind direction. While the land may change over time, the landscape around it does not. To the east and south-east, you may see Eryri, Yr Eifl and Pen Llyn (Llyn Peninsula). To the west, you are looking into the vastness of the Irish Sea.
From here, you can walk to many other landmarks as you walk along the Anglesey coastal path, as well as the Wales Coast Path. To the east, you can walk past the historical landmarks of Cwningâr Trefriw, Porth Cadwaladr, Porth Cae-ceffylau and Porth y Cwch.
Eglwys Sant Cwyfan near Porth Cwyfan on Anglesey -Credit:Daily Post Wales
Or to the west, you can embark on Porth Trefyn, Braich Lwyd, Porth Aels, Trwyn y Wylan and as far as Porth Cwyfan, which is a beautiful cove. Here, you’ll spot the magical sight of St Cwyfan’s Church, located on the tiny island of Cribinau, which is just offshore. At high tide, the little church is completely cut off from the mainland, surrounded by the sea. But visitors can wander over a little closer when the tide is low.
And if you are looking for a little treat to remember from your trip to Aberffraw, then you can’t beat the scallop-shaped Aberffraw biscuit from Aberffraw Biscuit Co. This is the oldest biscuit in Britain and said to have originated from the 13th century.
The story goes that the biscuit became a phenomenon when a Welsh king was holding court in Aberffraw and his wife took a stroll on the nearby beach. She spotted a pretty scallop shell and requested that a cake be baked in the same shape. While its royal identity may have been and gone, Aberffraw’s quaint village, sand dunes, beautiful beach and rugged landscape have stood the test of time.