This quaint village, nestled in what feels like a secluded valley, boasts a population of just under 750 – a figure that has remained relatively stable over the past decade. The journey down the long, narrow road to Llancarfan is akin to travelling back in time.
In Llancarfan, it’s quite possible you’ll encounter empty streets, contributing to the sense of a peaceful, idyllic parallel universe. This tranquillity has earned the village a spot on a list of the 48 poshest places to live in Britain.
The village is bisected by the stream Nant Llancarfan, with an array of small bridges crisscrossing the waterway. Houses are perched along the banks, their immaculate front lawns almost spilling into the river, contained only by neat fences.
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Ian Fell, a resident living in a converted chapel at the village’s western boundary, shared: “It’s 200 years old and closed in about 1950, and was taken over by an artist who sold it to an architect who adapted it very sensitively. It’s only had about four families in it [since then].
“Where I came from was rural [too]. Llancarfan is a great, supportive community. I don’t think there’s a village kid who hasn’t worked behind the bar in the Fox and Hound as part of their training!”
Ian Fell was keen to talk about Llancarfan -Credit:John Myers
Ian’s home is an unusual one -Credit:John Myers
The stream cuts right through the centre of the village -Credit:John Myers
Life in Llancarfan, situated just north of Rhoose, west of Barry, and east of St Athan, has seen its share of challenges. Ian recalls the disruption caused when the local school was shut down, fondly remembering the sounds of children at play.
The village, despite its rural setting and the joy of children playing with ducks in the stream, maintains a significant character through its “iconic speciality” – the church wall paintings, which are described as “absolutely fascinating.”
St Cadoc’s Church, dating back to the 12th century and believed to be built on the site of the original monastery founded by the Welsh saint, stands almost alone in the centre of the village. The Fox and Hounds pub and the village hall, which reportedly doubles as a fully operational cinema, maintain a respectful distance on either side of the graveyard.
Inside the church, intricate carvings and paintings, restored in recent years, depict the Seven Deadly Sins, St George, and images of death. Visitors from Kentucky, Kent, Long Island, Sydney, Ontario, Florida, London, Venice, western France, Wisconsin, Liverpool, Vancouver and Sydney (with one visitor making a second trip to the church) have all signed the guestbook.
Father Kevin Barry -Credit:John Myers
Inside the church -Credit:John Myers
The church feels deceptively bigger once you walk inside -Credit:John Myers
Llancarfan is somewhat of a tourist hotspot, with St Cadoc’s Church being one of the main attractions. Father Kevin Barry stated: “This is a lovely village, especially with the church, which draws visitors from all around the world. It has a strong community feel, whether that’s in the pub or the church. People who live here are from all over the place, England and Scotland as well as Wales. It’s a great place for kids to grow up.
“A lot of people have lived here since they were children. Being cut off from public transport is a bit of a challenge, especially for the elderly and those who don’t drive, but there’s a reliable taxi service and school buses do serve the area. Many residents commute to Cardiff.”
The common narrative across the UK is that quaint villages like Llancarfan often succumb to the pressure to expand and transform into commuter suburbs for larger cities. However, Father Kevin insists that Llancarfan has managed to resist this trend: “The infrastructure for more houses isn’t here,” he clarified, “there are no shops and [not enough] public transport.”
Michael, Chloe and Aaron -Credit:John Myers
Perfect for a cold day -Credit:John Myers
Just a stone’s throw away from the church, you’ll find the Fox and Hounds – a pub renowned for its excellent food for many years. Landlords Andrew and Julie took the reins in October 2022 and re-opened the establishment in November of the same year. Behind the bar, Chloe shares her thoughts: “It’s quite nice here, it’s really quiet.
“There’s not many people here but all the locals are lovely.
“It’s really nice to take a walk around, you’re not surrounded by people and you barely hear any cars. It’s out of the way but it is also a destination. People come here as a destination, for a holiday – sometimes if they have family here but we’ve had people from Canada recently coming here just on holiday.”
Cliff House -Credit:Watts & Morgan, Cowbridge / Home Viewpoint
Llancarfan is certainly a destination – not only for holidaymakers, religious pilgrims and history buffs seeking St Cadoc’s, but also for those looking to purchase a beautiful home in the countryside. Over the years, some truly stunning properties have been listed for sale in and around the village.
Take Cliff House, for example. The property, which hit the market in 2022 with a guide price of £1.5m, boasts an impressive garden and a spacious conservatory. The thatched stone cottage, originally constructed in the 18th century as a working farmhouse, was awarded a Grade II listing by Cadw in 1995 for being ‘a good example of a picturesque, thatched C18 farmhouse with surviving features and well preserved C19 additions’.
Wales is home to numerous idyllic villages, each offering potential for charming homes – but Llancarfan certainly holds a unique appeal.